Back from three weeks in San Juanico, Baja Sur, 1000 miles from Los Angeles. Empty landscape. The desert spreads its arid fingertips towards the ocean, bringing with it hot dry air. The ocean is a twinkling blue energy that takes me in and washes away all concerns of dry land.
Escapism at its very best.
Slip into the blue......glide out, disengage from land.
Movement takes hold of your body and the flow of the water pushes you down the line. Speed builds and the energy of the wave expands upon you, engaging you to express yourself. Aware of every move, the subtleties of your weight, the movement of your feet. Cross stepping towards the nose, a quick release and there you are balanced in a state of perfection, perched like a beacon, held at the edge. Move backwards, quick foot steps and you are cutting back, stretching towards the breaking wave, readjust your weight, dig your rail and begin the quick climb back to the dance again....
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